Bed Temperature Chart
Starting bed temps by material, and what actually helps when a print won't stay stuck.
| Material | First layer | Standard | Adhesion help |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 55–60°C | 0–60°C (bed optional after first layer) | Clean PEI sheet is usually enough on its own |
| PETG | 75–85°C | 70–80°C | Glue stick on smooth PEI if it's sticking too well and tearing the sheet |
| ABS | 100–110°C | 95–105°C | ABS slurry (ABS scraps dissolved in acetone) on glass, or a textured PEI sheet |
| ASA | 100–110°C | 95–105°C | Same as ABS |
| TPU | 50–60°C | 40–60°C | Textured PEI or a glue stick; smooth surfaces can grip TPU too well |
| Nylon | 75–90°C | 70–80°C | Glue stick strongly recommended — nylon barely sticks to bare PEI |
| PC | 110–120°C | 105–115°C | Glue stick, and an enclosure to prevent warping as it cools |
Why "first layer" bed temp is often hotter
A hotter first-layer bed temperature keeps the very first layer soft and tacky long enough to fully bond to the build surface; once later layers are printing on top of already-adhered plastic, the bed can often drop a few degrees for the rest of the print without losing adhesion, which reduces warping risk on materials prone to it (ABS, ASA, PC especially).
When bed temp alone won't fix it
If a print keeps releasing from the bed despite being in the right temperature range, the more common culprits are a first layer printed too high off the bed, a bed that isn't actually level (see the Bed Leveling Guide), or a build surface that needs a wash with soap and water to strip skin oils and old release agent buildup — adhesion failures are more often a surface-prep problem than a temperature problem.