Nozzle Temperature Chart
Starting points for a temperature tower, not a substitute for running one on a new brand or color.
| Material | First layer | Standard | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 200–215°C | 190–220°C | Widest safe range of any common material |
| PETG | 235–245°C | 230–250°C | Too low causes poor layer adhesion; too high causes stringing |
| ABS | 235–245°C | 230–250°C | Consistent chamber temperature matters more than exact nozzle temp |
| ASA | 245–255°C | 240–260°C | Similar behavior to ABS |
| TPU | 215–225°C | 210–230°C | Print slow regardless of temp — flexible filament needs time, not heat |
| Nylon | 245–255°C | 240–260°C | Dry the filament first — wet nylon causes bubbling and poor strength at any temp |
| PC | 275–285°C | 270–300°C | Confirm hotend is rated for this range before attempting |
Why first-layer temp usually runs a few degrees hotter
A slightly hotter first layer bonds better to a cooler bed and improves adhesion, since the extra heat compensates for the temperature the plastic loses contacting a colder surface. Once later layers are printing on top of already-warm plastic instead of a bed, that extra margin isn't needed anymore, which is why slicers commonly default to a first-layer temperature offset above the rest of the print.
Running an actual temperature tower
Every brand's exact formulation shifts these ranges slightly, and pigments (especially black, and some transparents) absorb heat differently and often need a few degrees more. A temperature tower — most slicers can generate one from a model with built-in temperature-change scripting — prints the same shape at stepped temperatures down its height, so you can pick the cleanest-looking segment on your own printer instead of trusting any chart, including this one, exactly.